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The lighthouses of Brittany

The lighthouses of hell, those you can visit, and where to see them from land: the greatest concentration in the world.

7 min read

The Iroise Sea, between the Pointe du Raz and Ouessant, has the greatest concentration of lighthouses in the world. It is not for show: it is one of the most dangerous passages in Europe, with currents of eight to ten knots in the Fromveur, rocks just below the surface and Atlantic swell arriving with nothing to stop it.

The keepers ranked their postings in three categories, and the ranking says it all. Paradise was a lighthouse on land, where the family lived. Purgatory was a lighthouse on an inhabited island. Hell was a lighthouse built on a rock in the open sea, where you stayed for weeks and could not leave when the sea was rough.

The lighthouses of hell

  • La Jument, in the Fromveur, made famous by Jean Guichard’s 1989 photograph: the keeper in the doorway, the wave behind him.
  • Ar-Men, at the end of the Chaussée de Sein, the most feared of all: fourteen years of construction, from 1867 to 1881, with an average of seven working days a year, the sea preventing work the rest of the time. Its name means “the stone” in Breton.
  • Kéréon, between Ouessant and Molène, known as the last “monument lighthouse”: mosaics in the stairwell, an oak parquet floor with a compass rose inlaid in mahogany and ebony, Hungarian oak panelling. Amicie Lebaudy paid for more than half of it, and it bears the name of her great uncle, a naval officer guillotined in 1794.
  • La Vieille, in the Raz de Sein, and Tévennec, said to be haunted, which keepers left before the end of their posting.

None can be visited: they have been automated since the 1990s and are inaccessible. You see them from the coast, from a boat or from the islands.

Those you can visit

A handful of lighthouses on land open their staircases to the public, in season and in fine weather. They are towers of two to three hundred steps, with no lift, and the wind decides: a visit can close within the hour.

The lighthouses in our guide

Visiting hours and conditions change from one season to the next, and visits close in strong winds: check on the day with the lighthouse or the tourist office.

How to read a lighthouse

Every lighthouse has its own light signature, which lets you identify it at night without a chart: one flash every five seconds, two grouped flashes every ten, a fixed light. It is written on nautical charts, and you can watch it from the coast at dusk.

Where to see them from land

Viewpoints over the Iroise Sea and elsewhere

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