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Bretagne

Without a car

Visiting Brittany without a car

What can be done by train, boat and bike, and what cannot: the towns served, the connections, and the limits.

7 min read

It is possible, and even pleasant, as long as you choose a well connected base and accept that some things will stay out of reach. The Pointe du Raz without a car needs a coach from Quimper; Cap Fréhel, a coach from Saint-Malo in summer only.

The Breton network has a simple shape: a fast Paris to Rennes to Brest line in the north, a Paris to Nantes to Quimper line in the south, and regional lines running down to the coast. What is on these routes is easy; what is in between is not.

The towns to arrive in

CityFrom ParisWhat you can reach on foot or by coach
Rennes1 hour 25The whole city, the Parliament, the Lices
Nantes2 hoursThe castle, the Machines, the Passage Pommeraye
Saint-Malo2 hours 30The walled city, the beach, Dinard by water bus
Vannes2 hours 30The Gulf, boats to the islands
Quimper3 hours 30The centre, the cathedral, coaches to the coast
Brest3 hours 30Océanopolis, boats to Ouessant and Molène
Lorient3 hoursThe submarine base, boats to Groix
Quiberon4 hoursThe Tire-Bouchon train in summer, boats to Belle-Île

Saint-Malo, Vannes and Quiberon are the best bases without a car: in each, you get off the train and onto a boat, which gives access to the most beautiful places without ever driving.

Boats, which replace the road

This is the Breton particularity: sea links are not excursions but transport. The water bus links Saint-Malo to Dinard in ten minutes, while the road takes fifteen kilometres around the Rance. In the Gulf of Morbihan, boats link Vannes, Locmariaquer, the Île aux Moines and the Île d’Arz all year round.

The bike, which changes everything

Hiring a bike at the station extends your range from five to twenty five kilometres, and it is what makes a car free stay really comfortable. Brittany has more than two thousand kilometres of cycle routes, including the Nantes to Brest canal: three hundred and sixty four kilometres of flat, car free towpath, which can be ridden in a week.

La Vélomaritime, which follows the north coast, and La Vélodyssée, which runs along the Atlantic in the south, complete the network. Both are waymarked and pass through towns served by train.

What you can visit without a car

In towns served by train

These places can be reached on foot from a station, or by local bus. They are the foundation of a car free stay, and there is already plenty.

Staying near a station

This is what decides a car free stay: a hotel ten minutes’ walk from the station is better than a campsite six kilometres away, even if it is cheaper. The towns served by train have most of the options.

Hotels in towns served by train

Prices and availability change from one season to the next: check with the establishment.

Walking from a station

The GR 34 passes through several towns served by train: you get off, walk for half a day along the coast, and take the train again further on. It is the simplest way to hike without a car, and it avoids loops.

Hikes near the towns

What remains difficult

  • The headlands of Finistère: the Pointe du Raz and the Pointe Saint-Mathieu need a seasonal coach or a taxi.
  • Campsites, almost all outside the villages, two or three kilometres from a stop.
  • Remote loop hikes, whose starting points are served by nothing.
  • The Monts d’Arrée and central Brittany, where the train does not go and coaches are rare.

Going further

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