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Bretagne

Department

What to do in Loire-Atlantique

Nantes, La Baule, the Guérande salt marshes: the department with the most places in our guide, between the Loire and the Atlantic.

7 min read

Loire-Atlantique has not been part of the Brittany region since 1941, but it belongs to historic Brittany: Nantes was its capital, and the castle of the dukes still stands there. The debate on reunification comes back with every territorial reform. This guide treats it like the rest, because visitors make no difference, and they are right.

It is the department with the most places in our guide, six hundred and twenty one, and the most varied: a major city, a hundred and thirty kilometres of coast, salt marshes and vineyards.

Nantes

The Château des ducs de Bretagne, in the centre, houses the city’s history museum, and its ramparts can be walked for free. The Machines de l’île, on the former shipyards, are the attraction everyone knows: the twelve metre mechanical elephant carries fifty people.

The Passage Pommeraye, an 1843 shopping arcade on three levels linked by a monumental staircase, is worth the detour even if you buy nothing.

What to see in and around Nantes

The coast

The Bay of La Baule stretches nine kilometres from Pornichet to Le Pouliguen, five of them continuous beach: one of the longest in Europe. To the west, the wild coast of Le Croisic and Batz-sur-Mer offers the opposite, rocks and coves battered by the west wind.

The beaches of Loire-Atlantique

Guérande and the salt marshes

The marshes cover two thousand hectares between Guérande and Le Croisic, and three hundred salt workers harvest the salt by hand as it has been done for twelve centuries. Each salt pan measures seventy square metres, in a land register unchanged since 1343. Fleur de sel is gathered from the surface with a lousse, which looks like a sieve and is slid under the film without touching the bottom; coarse salt is drawn from the bottom with a las. The season runs from June to September, and it is the only time you can see the work.

The medieval town of Guérande has kept its complete walls, four gates and six towers, over one point three kilometres.

The vineyards

Muscadet is made south east of Nantes, on eight thousand hectares of vines, one of the largest dry white wine areas in France. Clisson, on its edge, is a curiosity: ruined during the Vendée wars, it was rebuilt from 1798 on the Tuscan model by the Cacault brothers, two Nantes men back from Italy, and then by the sculptor Lemot. Curved tiles, thin bricks, round arches: you would think you were elsewhere, and it can be visited in half a day.

Villages and heritage

Where to stay

Campsites and hotels

A hundred and twenty eight campsites in this department alone: the largest number in our guide, concentrated on the coast.

Going further

Loire-Atlantique, in the journal

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