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Offshore

The Breton islands

Bréhat, Ouessant, Sein, Groix, Belle-Île: which one to choose, how to get there, and why a day is never enough.

8 min read

A Breton island is not an excursion, it is a whole day, and often two. The crossing takes from ten minutes to an hour and a quarter, sailings are limited out of season, and missing the last boat means spending the night there, which is not always possible.

That is also what makes them special: from five in the afternoon, when the day boats have left, an island changes completely. Everyone who stays overnight says so.

Which one to choose

IslandDepartureCrossingWhat you will find
BréhatPointe de l’Arcouest10 minHydrangeas, pink granite, no cars
OuessantLe Conquet or Brest1 hour 15 or 2 hours 30Lighthouses, heathland, the end of the world
SeinAudierne1 hourFlat, tiny, timeless
MolèneLe Conquet45 minSeventy inhabitants, seals
GroixLorient45 minA convex beach, cliffs, cycling
Belle-ÎleQuiberon45 minThe largest, four municipalities
Houat and HœdicQuiberon40 minWhite sand, almost nothing else
Île aux MoinesPort-Blanc5 minIn the Gulf, by bike

For a first time, Bréhat or the Île aux Moines: the crossing is short, the island can be explored on foot, and you come back in the evening without stress. To see what “the end of the world” means, Ouessant or Sein, but stay the night.

Ouessant, the end of the world

Fifteen square kilometres battered by the winds, five lighthouses, and a saying that sums it up: “He who sees Ouessant sees his own blood”. The Fromveur passage, between the island and Molène, carries the fastest current in Europe, eight to ten knots. The black and white striped Créac’h lighthouse is one of the most powerful in the world and is home to a lighthouse and beacon museum, currently closed for a long renovation.

Sein, one and a half metres above the sea

The Île de Sein rises to six metres at its highest and stands on average one and a half metres above the sea: storms sweep right across it. It has no cars and no trees, and its lanes are sometimes a metre wide, built that way to break the wind. In late June 1940, a hundred and fourteen of its men set off on five fishing boats to join de Gaulle in London; there were a hundred and thirty three in all, every man of fighting age, from the youngest, who slipped on board at fourteen, to the oldest at fifty four. When they were presented to him, de Gaulle said the famous words: “So the Île de Sein is a quarter of France.” The island holds the Cross of the Liberation.

What to know before booking

What you see there

On the islands, and facing them

Some of these places are on the mainland, facing the islands: that is where you see them best, and the view is sometimes worth the crossing.

The departure ports

People often forget that a departure port is a destination: Le Conquet, Audierne, Quiberon and the Pointe de l’Arcouest are worth half a day on their own, and that is what you do anyway while waiting for the boat.

What to see in the departure ports

Sleeping on an island

It is the only way to see what an island becomes in the evening. Places are limited and are booked months ahead in July and August, much less the rest of the year.

Places to stay on the coast and the islands

Prices and availability change from one season to the next: check with the establishment.

Going further

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