What to do in Côtes-d’Armor

Côtes-d’Armor was called Côtes-du-Nord until the decree of 27 February 1990, and the department changed its name because the old one did it a disservice: fifty three per cent of French people placed it between the Channel and the Nord department. Ar mor means “the sea” in Breton, as opposed to the Argoat, the land of the woods, which begins a few kilometres inland.

It is the department of colours: the pink granite of Ploumanac’h, the red sandstone cliffs of Cap Fréhel, the blue hydrangeas of Bréhat. These are not tricks of the light but rocks and plants, visible in any weather.

The Pink Granite Coast

Ten kilometres of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Trébeurden, where the granite has taken on a pink hue that comes from its feldspar crystals. The boulders of Ploumanac’h are the best known, and the customs officers’ path runs through them: an easy hour’s walk takes you from Saint-Guirec beach to the Mean Ruz lighthouse.

Cap Fréhel and Fort La Latte

The cape rises seventy metres above the sea, on cliffs of schist and pink sandstone, and carries four hundred and fourteen hectares of heather and gorse heath: the largest such area on the French coast. At its foot, the Fauconnière reserve is home to fifteen seabird species, including the northern fulmar, the common guillemot and the rare razorbill. Fort La Latte, four kilometres away, sits on its own rock, separated from the land by a chasm.

Towns and villages

Dinan takes the prize: three kilometres of ramparts, and a Rue du Jerzual running down to the port in cobbles and half timbered houses. Paimpol, Tréguier and Moncontour are smaller and less visited, which is their charm in July.

The Île de Bréhat

Ten minutes by boat from the Pointe de l’Arcouest, and cars are banned. The island is in fact two, linked by a bridge: to the south, hydrangeas, mimosas and fig trees; to the north, heathland and pink granite. The blue hydrangeas flower in May and June. The island is three and a half kilometres long, so it can be explored on foot in a day.

Walking

The GR 34 runs along the whole department, and this is one of its most beautiful sections. Short loops around the capes let you see the essentials in half a day.

Where to stay